To this day in Little Havana, the food, including black beans and rice and frita cubanas — hamburgers of a sort, topped with grated fried potatoes — is Cuban. Street murals depict Latin leaders.

Carol M. HighsmithMen play dominoes next to a mural depicting the first Summit of the Americas, at which leaders of 34 North, Central and South American nations gathered in Miami in 1994.

The games of dominoes that old men play in Maximo Gomez Park are straight out of Havana.

The music is exuberantly Cuban at street festivals along Calle Ocho. And many of the cigars that the men smoke are hand-rolled right in Little Havana by craftsmen who brought their trade with them from the Cuban capital.

But all around this pocket of Cuban culture, things are changing. Ten years ago, almost all of Miami's top 10 radio stations broadcast in Spanish. Now, just two do.

That's because — while Spanish is still the language in many homes — the children of immigrants from Cuba and other Latin nations speak English in school and on the street, wear American clothes and prefer upbeat Anglo rock music to their parents' dreamy, old Spanish ballads.