A Century Later, Candy Man Still Sells Taffy

July 16, 2012

Ron Kotteman, and Rosie, on the job. You can tell this photograph was taken a few years ago, just by looking at the posted price for the “candy man’s” wares. (Carol M. Highsmith)

The colorful old southern seaport of New Orleans, Louisiana, is full of character - and characters: mimes and clowns on Jackson Square, “Lucky Dog” men who sell hot dogs from carts shaped like wieners in a bun, boys who’ll shine your shoes and tap-dance in the street for a dollar or two.

And eccentrics of all sorts, some in scandalous costumes or barely any costume at all, each year during Carnival season.

One New Orleans character who’s still going strong after nearly a century is the “Roman Candy Man,” with his Roman Chewing Candy wagon pulled by a mule named Patsy.

Here’s his story.

Back in 1915, when Ron Kottemann’s grandfather, Sam Cortese, was a young man, he used to sell fruit and vegetables and a little bit of homemade Italian taffy, or soft “pull candy,” that Cortese’s mother made back in her kitchen.

He sold all this from a white wagon pulled by a mule, and he’d ring a gong to let everyone know he was passing through.

Pretty soon, the candy was selling better than the produce, so he repainted the wagon, called it the “Roman Chewing Candy Wagon,” and went back to rolling about town. Just one cart and one mule.