Three scant years ago, Shanghai celebrated the100th birthday of one of history’s most famous junkfoods — the Oreo biscuit — with fireworks on the Bund and multi-storey neon advertsprojected on to skyscrapers. But now China has put Oreo on a diet.
3年多以前,上海庆祝了史上最著名的垃圾食品之一——奥利奥(Oreo)问世100周年纪念日——外滩上燃放了焰火,摩天大楼上投射了几层楼高的奥利奥霓虹灯广告。但现在,中国让奥利奥“节食减肥。
This is a country where, within living memory, millions starved to death. People will, to this day,tell you how they ate roots or shoots or even dirt to stay alive. Little wonder the Chinesemarket was a pushover for the ubiquitous black-and-white sandwich cookie.
在这个国家,人们仍然记得曾经有数百万人饿死的经历。直至今天,还有人会告诉你,他们是如何靠吃草根树芽,甚至泥土活下来。也难怪这种随处可见的黑白夹心饼干轻而易举地征服了中国市场。
Foreign treats were seen as healthier than local snacks, because they were imported from placesthat did not have such a vigorous tradition of poisoning residents with tainted ingredients, aswas the fad in China. When I moved here in 2008, it took a while to get used to the notion thatMcDonald’s was a healthy option, purely because it was less likely to be toxic. Here, whenmainlanders tell you something is “healthy, they often mean that it won’t be immediately fatal.
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