Chanel became a licensed modiste in 1910 and opened a boutique at 21 rue Cambon, Paris named Chanel Modes. Chanels modiste career bloomed once theatre actress Gabrielle Dorziat modelled her hats in the F Nozieres play Bel Ami in 1912 . In 1913, she established a boutique in Deauville, where she introduced luxe casual clothes that were suitable for leisure and sport. Chanel launched her career as fashion designer when she opened her next boutique, titled Chanel-Biarritz, in 1915, catering to the wealthy Spanish clientele who holidayed in Biarritz and were less affected by the war. Fashionable like Deauville, Chanel created loose casual clothes made out of jersey, a material typically used for mens underwear. By 1919, Chanel was registered as a couturiere and established her maison de couture at 31 rue Cambon.
Coco Chanel, 1920.
In 1920, she was introduced by ballet impresario Sergei Diaghilev to Igor Stravinsky. Now a notable patron of the arts, Chanel guaranteed the production of the ballet Le Sacre du Printemps against financial loss, and provided her new home Bel Respiro, located in a Paris suburb, as a residence for composer Stravinsky and his family. In addition to turning out her couture collections, Chanel threw her prodigious energies into designing dance costumes for the cutting-edge Ballet Russe. Between the years 1923-1937, she collaborated on productions choreographed by Diaghilev and dancer Vaslav Nijinsky, notably Le Train bleu, a dance-opera, Orphe and Oedipe Roi.
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