Chanel was well aware that her lineage from peasant stock would forever prohibit her marriage into aristocratic circles. When asked why she did not marry the The Duke of Westminster, she stated: There have been several Duchesses of Westminster. There is only one Chanel.
Chanel was, the first to show black dresses to be worn at any time.
As the 1930s progressed, Chanels place on the throne of haute couture came under threat. The boyish look and the short skirts of the 1920s flapper seemed to disappear overnight. Chanels designs for film stars in Hollywood had met with failure, and had not aggrandized her reputation as expected. More significantly, Chanels star had been eclipsed by her premier rival, the designer, Elsa Schiaparelli. Schiaparellis innovative design, replete with playful references to Surrealism was creating much enthusiasm and excitement in the fashion world. Feeling she was losing her avant-garde edge, Chanel proceeded to collaborate with Jean Cocteau on his theatre piece, Oedipe Rex. The costumes she designed were mocked and critically lambasted: Wrapped in bandages the actors looked like ambulant mummies or victims of some terrible accident.
World War II
In 1939, at the beginning of World War II, Chanel closed her shops, maintaining her apartment situated above the couture house at 31 rue Cambon. She claimed that it was not a time for fashion. Three thousand female employees lost their jobs. The advent of war had given Chanel the opportunity to retaliate against those workers who, lobbying for fair wages and work hours, had closed down her business operation during the general labor strike in France in 1936. In closing her couture house, Chanel made a definitive statement of her political views. Her violent loathing of Jews, inculcated by her convent years and sharpened by her association with society elites had solidified her beliefs. She shared with most of her circle the conviction that Jews were a Bolshevik threat to Europe. During the German occupation Chanel resided at the Hotel Ritz, which was also noteworthy for being the preferred place of residence for upper echelon German military staff. Her romantic liaison with Hans Gnther von Dincklage, a German officer who had been an operative in military intelligence since 1920, facilitated her arrangement to reside at the Ritz.
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