"The heritage breeds are at risk simply because they are not being used commercially," Long explained. "Those birds became very popular in about the [19]50s and just took over the market at that point."
And heritage breeds nearly disappeared. Today there are fewer than 10,000 Standard Bronze turkeys left, according to the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy.
Local livestock breeds are threatened in many parts of the world. One reason is that efficiency is trumping diversity in order to meet the growing demand for animal protein.
But Long says it would be a mistake to lose the heritage breeds.
"It's best to keep these around, sort of as an insurance policy," Long added. "You may never need those genetics. But if you do and they're gone, then you're out of luck."
That genetic "insurance policy" could provide tolerance for harsher environments brought on by climate change. Or resistance to new diseases. Or better ability to forage for themselves as the cost of commercial feed goes up.
One key to saving these rare breeds, experts say, may be found in the kitchen. John Critchley is executive chef of Urbana Restaurant in downtown Washington. He prefers heritage birds to the standard supermarket variety.
"To me it has a better mouthfeel," said Critchley. "It has a richer taste. A more buttery finish to it."
A growing number of chefs and consumers are seeking out flavors they say have been lost in modern agriculture.
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