A speaker at a head table discoursed on the history of dishes people were eating, and the relationship of food, work, and eating to the life and culture of the German province of Schleswig Holstein. In an attempt to popularize the Slow Food Movement in the United States, Carlo Petrini made a 10-day trip across the United States, ending up as the honorary guest at the Berkeley meeting, slow, 10-course dinner celebrating simply prepared, regional products.

Guests sampled appetizers of ferns, sipped wines and chatted, before sitting down to salmon with lime oil, followed by white asparagus in herbs. This dish was preceded by a dining-room demonstration of chef Jean-Pierre Moulle showing how to clean the fish without cutting it open, a performance cheered by the group, a collection of over 50 enthusiasts seated at long tables. To defend biodiversity we have to defend small producers. The Slow Food Movement is different from ecological movements and from gastronomy movements. Gastronomical movements don't defend the small producers and their products, and ecological movements fight the battles, but can't cook.

Slow Food Movement has both at the same time. The Slow Food Movement has been likened to Don Quixote fighting the windmills, but if the recent enthusiasm for this complex organization with its ecological and gastronomical goals and sense of fun is any indication, the quixotic figure of Carlo Petrini may be triumphant.

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