A big problem is our focus on individual nutrients or ingredients. Stanton argues this takes the focus away from fresh produce and towards processed foods. Our fixation with specific vitamins or mineral also creates an environment in which manufacturers can add nutrients to food and make health claims for those foods.

“Then it achieves a health halo and it sells, and you see this with heavily sweetened breakfast cereals,” Stanton says. “I get concerned when people find that something’s good then they stick it in their Coco Pops.” Stanton points out that she is yet to find an Australian deficient in the sort of nutrients that go into fortified cereals.

There is one ingredient that Stanton is happy to single out: sugar. She argues that a sugar tax is ‘low-hanging fruit’ that governments would be foolish not to pick. But the food industry around the world has been fighting tooth-and-nail against such an approach, which Stanton takes as a sign of encouragement. “Whenever the processed food industry opposes something vehemently, I’ve got a pretty good idea it would work.”

In general, Stanton argues that the same age-old dietary wisdom still holds: lots of fresh fruit and vegetables, whole grains, small amounts of protein, particularly fish and seafood. For this reason, the Mediterranean diet is often upheld by many as the closest thing to a dietary magic bullet, heavy in plant-based foods and oily fish.

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