Both foreign traders and local producers have in recent months observed a remarkable rise in the popularity of wine in China, at least in the country?s more prosperous cities and coastal regions. There are several reasons for this. One has been a sustained effort by the Chinese government to limit the use of staple grains (主食) for things as frivolous as spirits or beer. Another has been a lot of reports filtering out (过滤) via Hong Kong and Taiwan,

　　citing scientific findings about red wine’s good effects on health in general and manliness in particular. Mr. St. Pierre, who imports Western wines to China, says that his red wines outsell his whites by 20 to 1, leading him to conclude that Chinese drinkers are indeed choosing their beverages with good health in mind.

　　Mr. St. Pierre is toasting increases in sales of 25% a month. Carl Crook, another importer, recalls that, when he began selling wine in China four years ago, his clients were mainly “well­heeled and desperate expatriates (侨民)”. His company, Montrose, now sells more than 1,000 cases a month and expects sales to double this year, despite taxes and duties which add 121% to the price of imported wines. Its catalogue ranges from cheap Californian wines selling wholesale for 69 yuan per bottle, to Chateau Lafitte Rothschild.

　　Domestic producers are also cottoning on to the joys of the grape. A few Chinese wineries are increasingly successful, in both international competitions and the domestic market. China?s largest wine producer, Dynasty, has overcome quality control problems to produce a well­received 1995 Chardonnay. The Huadong Winery in Qingdao (a city still more famous for its beer) has also yielded a successful Chardonnay. Local bottling of foreign wines, local production, and if they materialize, long rumored cuts in tariff duties (关税) may soon help bring the joys of wine to greater numbers of Chinese.

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