纪行由科林从尼泊尔境内穿过西藏边境前往冈底斯拉开帷幕。这片土地上到处都是神圣群体与神秘故事。石头上刻满了宗教咒语,祷告旗在岗顶劲风中飞舞,一路上的寺院中传出虔诚的吟诵。
The mountain itself is an important site of pilgrimage for Hindus, Buddhists and followers ofancient Tibetan faiths. The goal is to seek purification by trudging round the mountain on aroute that is physically demanding but brings spiritual reward. Some die from the effort,others give up, all are possessed by the sense that they are living close to a divine presence.
冈底斯本身是印度教、佛教和古代西藏宗教信仰者们朝拜的圣地。朝圣者们沿着山脉长途跋涉,身体饱受折难,而心灵得以慰藉,以此寻求涤罪。途中不乏竭力而亡或退却放弃之人,但所有朝圣之民皆心怀念想,希望更近神明。
In the midst of all this Mr Thubron acts like a kind of secular shaman, allowing himself to bepossessed by the many spirits of the place without succumbing to their power. He respectswhat it is that drives pilgrims to Mount Kailas, and follows them round it, but he does notpretend that he is at one with them.
在朝圣的队伍中,休布伦先生倒像是个世俗的萨满,允许自己心怀此地的神灵却从不屈服于神明的力量。他尊敬那股朝圣冈底斯的神圣力量,并跟随朝圣者的脚步,但他自己却从未假装成为真正的朝圣者。
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