Back in Luang Prabang, at dawn the spiritually inclinedalong with the more dedicated visitorskneel along the length of the main street with offerings of rice for the crocodiles of passing orange-clad monks. To each you must offer a handful from your tip khaothe traditional woven bamboo pot. Next on the morning to-do list for locals is the market, which snakes along a narrow street in the centre of town. There are plenty of peculiar things for salesquirrels, assorted rodents, cricketsbut the main focus is fish and shellfish, particularly the small pinky-orange Mekong crabs, which are strung on large hoops of bamboo as if on some mermaid-gaolers key ring. And then there are the vegetables: neat, abundant piles of morning glory and watercress, and so-called river weeds (a Mekong speciality). Everywhere you look there are mini-mountains of chillies and limes, both key ingredients in the national dish of laap, a spicy minced meat or fish salad.

回到琅勃拉邦。清晨时分，沿着大街跪满了虔诚而专注的香客们，他们向一队队穿着橙色袈裟的和尚们施舍大米。你必须从传统的编织竹篓里拿出米来分给那些和尚，每人一把。当地人接下来要在早上做的第二件事情就是去市场。市场位于市中心一条狭窄的街道上。有很多特别的东西在那里售卖松鼠，各种鼠类，蟋蟀等，但最多的还是鱼和贝类。特别是淡红色的湄公河小蟹，用竹环扎起来，好像美人鱼看守人的钥匙环。还有那些蔬菜：堆得整整齐齐的圆叶牵牛花、豆瓣菜以及所谓的河籽（湄公河的一种特产）。到处都可以看见堆成小山般的辣椒和酸橙，这两样都是老挝人做主菜腊普（一种用肉糜或鱼做成的香辣色拉）的主要食材。

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