I, of course, having just met them, ate fully clothed. I washed my clothes by hand and hung them outdoors to dry.

On the last night of our three-week stay, we had a large family dinner. I was tired of washing my clothes. So I pulled my dress over my head and placed it on the chair behind me. The table broke out in applause. Even with my poor Romanian, I understood that they were saying, "She's part of our family now."

My children were 4 and 5 at the time, but they still have memories of that trip. They know how to say, "Good morning." and "There are apricots on the tree." I can still say, "Do you speak Romanian?" and "I swim in the Black Sea."

But most of all, I remember sitting at a long dining-room table in my bra, supping on meatballs laced with a heavy dose of fresh garlic. When in Romania, you do as the Romanians do.

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