Gucci chose gold, for lace-up front stilletoes, and Versace and Armani both shaped heels with inward cuts to give an artistic flavor to the footwear.

Bags -- another important accessory for designers -- were big, soft and often carried a side pouch pocket, as at Dolce & Gabbana on Thursday -- enabling women to have the utility of a holdall and the chicness of a handbag together.

"A clutch bag that fits into a tote becomes your new twinset," Downing said.

For many designers, details were not confined to accessories and there were ample amounts of embroidery, ruffles and frills.

Emporio Armani had splashes of silver and sequins on Wednesday, Missoni banded a gold dress with bright turquoise that looked like enameling and Love, Sex, Money on Friday embroidered outfits in silver that gave an almost Turkish feel.

"The hand of the artist has popped up in every collection ... this whole painterly attitude feels very fresh," Downing said.

The artistic touch became fully-fledged artwork at Dolce & Gabbana's show on Thursday, when designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce asked three artists to paint fabrics for them.

Their finale was overflowing black dresses daubed with white, magenta, green or bright pink that looked as if the models had swirled themselves in the cast-off canvas in an artist's studio.

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