Mr. Eng wanted to use newer, more efficient machinery, but the old employees balked. "One guy just left in frustration when we were looking at this nice, new machine. He was like: 'I don't know how to use that machine. I want to use one like our old machine.'" Mr. Eng decided he would have to rebuild the recipes in his own way.
伍启芳想使用更新、更高效的机器,但遭到老员工的抵制。“我们看着这台漂亮的新机器,有个人直接不满地走了。他说:‘我不知道怎么用这台机器。我想用以前旧机器那样的东西。’”伍启芳决定,他必须以自己的方式重新设计食谱。
He did at least have a starting point: The process of making tofu has remained largely unchanged throughout history, even though the exact origin of tofu is unknown. A popular theory says that Liu An, a Chinese nobleman during the Han dynasty, accidentally invented it when soy milk somehow mixed with a natural coagulant. In Chinatown, the craft was often passed from more established immigrants to those more newly arrived.
他至少有一个起点:纵观历史,尽管确切的起源不明,但豆腐的制作过程基本没有改变。一个流行的说法是,一个叫刘安的汉朝贵族不小心在豆浆中混入了一种天然的凝固剂,于是意外发明了豆腐。在华埠,这种手艺通常是由已经站稳脚跟的移民传给新移民的。
Born in New York in 1966, Mr. Eng was part of a different generation — so he turned to YouTube. "There were Chinese videos. I would watch and try to match what I heard from our former employees to what people were doing in these videos." From there, it has been two years of trial and error — hunched over a counter trying different concentrations of soybean solids in his soy milk, comparing spec sheets on various brands of baking powder, fine-tuning temperatures and timings until things tasted like they used to in the glory days of the shop.
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