Arriving at the station, it was a vast relief to see the long white snout of a bullet train. Japans reputation in nuclear matters might have taken a knock, but at least they can lay on a fast getaway vehicle.
Inside the booking hall, there was Japanese-style panic whose symptoms are not the same as those of Western-style panic. Even without the shouting and fighting, people were clearly under great strain. Many had flared nostrils and terrified eyes.
The electronic departure board showed only two more trains that day, far too few for the swelling crowd. This caused a nasty moment, a low murmur of anger when the mood threatened to turn markedly ugly, but the board turned out to be wrong, as white-gloved railway officials hastily explained through little loudhailers. The TV screens showing the latest 24-hour rolling news were tactfully switched off.
A quarrel broke out in the ticket queue when one man tried to pay by credit card, holding everybody up. But there still was a ticket queue, and a queue to board, even though it was about half a mile long. Most people were too stressed to talk, or had no English. Very happy, said one man. Very happy to get out.
Two slightly grubby European backpackers the only other Westerners there looked every bit as pleased, but were swept away in the crowd before I could talk to them. Other peoples backpacks, and suitcases, were of a size suggesting they expected to be away for a while. There were big family groups, too, with children and old people.
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2016-02-26
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