When a server clears a plate before everyone is finished, he or she leaves the table with a mess of subtle but important signals. Those who are still eating are made to feel as though they are holding others up ; those who are not are made to feel as though they have rushed the meal. What was originally a group dining experience becomes a group exercise in guilt .
I’m not the only one who has noticed.
“It’s definitely been getting worse,” said Tyler Cowen, an economics professor at George Mason University who has written extensively about the economics of eating out. “It’s a problem. I don’t like it, either.”
A chorus of disapproval has surfaced elsewhere, too. Some examples: SF Gate, the San Francisco Chronicle’s sister site, ran a short piece in 2008 imploring waiters to be patient. Adam Roberts, the founder of the popular food blog the Amateur Gourmet, did the same in 2012. And the New York Times, as part of a long list of no-nos for restaurant staffers, included this: “Do not take an empty plate from one guest while others are still eating the same course. Wait, wait, wait.”
Why that subtlety seems to evade so many restaurants these days is unclear.
It’s possible that there’s an economic impetus behind it. “The price of land is going up, which pushes up the value of each table,” said Cowen. “That makes moving people along more important.”
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