Oud fragrances, with their intense, smoky woodiness, are becoming such a mainstay of modern perfumery that Kurkdjian is convinced they will eventually become a new fragrance category. “They are more than a passing trend,” he says. “Oud started out as something quite alien, outside the classic western fragrance families, but as our noses have become accustomed to it, we’ve fallen in love with the note.”
带有烟熏木材气息的、热情的沉香香水,正在成为现代香水的中流砥柱,库尔吉安坚信它最终能成为一个新的香水品种。“它们绝不是昙花一现。”他说,“沉香一开始闻起来很有异域风情,跟我们熟悉的西方世界的香氛不太一样,但是我们的鼻子很快就能适应它,然后我们会爱上这种味道。”
Perfect for the Gulf region, where women in traditional dress use fragrance as a way of expression, but in the past considered too overpowering for European sensibilities, oud has been modified by contemporary perfumers who blend it with softening floral notes, fruits and spices so there’s a familiarity within the intrigue. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud (£190), for example, combines the ingredient with patchouli as well as cedarwood and saffron for seductive depth; while Jo Malone Velvet Rose and Oud Cologne Intense (£95) has a sparkling quality thanks to bergamot and ginger lily.
对于海湾地区身着传统服饰的女性来说,沉香是她们表达自我最完美的方式之一,但是对于久经香水的欧洲女性来说,它还需要被改进得更为有现代感,加入使之变得柔和的花果和其他一些香料的味道,让人有种似曾相识之感。比如Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud (售价190英镑),便在其加入了广藿香、雪松以及藏红花,使之更为性感;而Jo Malone Velvet Rose and Oud Cologne Intense (售价95英镑)则由于加入佛手柑和野姜花而显得与众不同。
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