I got my hands on some in 1996, and since I didn't know when I'd get more, I used the peppercorns judiciously─roasting them with salt, say, to make a zesty dip for fried chicken. My favorite way to deploy them was to pound and scatter them into mapo tofu, a Sichuan classic of velvety tofu and ground meat swimming in a silky sauce. When the U.S. lifted the ban on Sichuan peppercorns in 2005, I rejoiced.

我在1996年弄到些花椒，当时因为不知道什么时候才能再弄到一些，所以我明智地把它们加盐烘焙，做成了花椒粉，在吃炸鸡时当蘸料享用。当然，我最喜欢的做法还是把它们撒在麻婆豆腐上。麻婆豆腐是一道经典川菜，由嫩豆腐、肉糜和浓汤般稠滑的酱料组成。当美国在2005年取消对花椒的禁令时，我高兴极了。

A few years later, while researching my 'Asian Tofu' cookbook, I traveled to Chengdu, the capital of China's Sichuan province. The peppercorns were plentiful at every market I visited, often displayed alongside chilies, their ma la partner. It was a sultry September, and a snack of dan dan noodles seasoned with salty preserved vegetables, perky Sichuan peppercorns and chili oil kept me alert in the intense humidity.

数年后，为了研究“亚洲豆腐”菜谱，我前往中国四川省的省会城市成都。在那里，每到一处市场，都可以看到花椒的身影，而且常与做麻辣菜必备的另一种原料──辣椒并排摆放。当时正值闷热的九月，以咸冬菜、丰裕的花椒和辣椒油等为佐料的四川特色小吃担担面，令我无时无刻不意识到空气中的闷热和潮湿。

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