1966年出生于纽约的伍启芳属于不同的一代,所以他转向了YouTube。“有华人做的视频。我就看这些视频,并且试着把我从老店员那里听到的东西,和人们在这些视频里做的东西的相比较。”从那以后,经历了两年的试错——在一个操作台上用各种方法在豆浆中实现凝固效果,比较不同品牌的泡打粉的规格表,调试温度,直到做出老店全盛时期的口味。
A couple weeks after Fong On's grand reopening on Aug. 17, three women huddled outside the shop peering through the window and tapping on the glass. The lights were still off in the retail space, but the air was already humid and smelling strongly of the fresh herbal jelly (leung fan) that Mr. Eng and his brother David were boiling in the back. It was still an hour or two before the store would open.
在8月17日宏安盛大开业几周后,店外有三个女人透过窗户向里张望,手指敲着玻璃。铺面还没有开灯,但潮湿的空气里已经能闻到一股浓郁的新鲜凉粉味,那是伍启芳和他的弟弟戴维(David)正在后面烹煮的东西。这时离开门营业还有一两个小时。
But the women could not be deterred. Making small hand signs of prayer and pleading, they were eventually let in. "We're from the neighborhood, we grew up in the neighborhood," said Tracy Lee, 60, who was there to buy rice cakes (bak tong gou). "This is like reliving our childhood."
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