Women Are Defining Paris Couture
巴黎高定品牌,现在由女性主宰
PARIS — Something unexpected has happened at the Paris couture — the tippy tippy top of the European fashion pyramid and the beating heart of its identity. Steadily, quietly, seemingly overnight (though obviously not) it has become defined by women: not those to whom it caters, but those in charge.
巴黎——巴黎高定作为欧洲时尚金字塔的最顶端以及它跳动的心脏,发生了一件意想不到的事情。平和地、静悄悄地、仿佛就在一夜之间(尽管显然不是),它已被女性所定义:女人不仅仅是时装周所要迎合的对象,她们也成了执掌大权的人。
The three most famous French couture houses are now designed by women: at Chanel, Virginie Viard is artistic director; at Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri; and at Givenchy, Clare Waight Keller. Meanwhile, the most singular newgen brand on the schedule, Iris van Herpen, is (duh) run by its namesake. That may not sound like a lot, but in a contracting discipline it means the balance of the power of influence is in their hands. Like what they do or not — and the results were mixed — there is no question, as the shows got underway, that a troika dominated the conversation.
法国最著名的三大时装公司现在都由女设计师担纲:维尔吉尼·维亚德(Virginie Viard)在香奈儿(Chanel)担任艺术总监;迪奥(Dior)的艺术总监是玛丽亚·格拉齐亚·基乌里(Maria Grazia Chiuri);纪梵希(Givenchy)则是克莱尔·维特·凯勒(Clare Waight Keller)。与此同时,当前最独特的新一代品牌艾莉丝·范·赫本(Iris van Herpen)则由她本人运营(哈)。听起来可能不多,但是根据合同约束,这意味着影响力的平衡掌握在她们手中。无论她们做什么、不做什么——其结果是好坏参半——毫无疑问,随着走秀继续进行,女性的三驾马车主导了对话。
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