There were not normally allowed out, he said.

"They were all highly trained at the State Arts College," he told me. "They were the most talented girls."

But here they find themselves watched night and day. The waitresses watch each other, the chef is watching the waitresses, someone is even watching the chef.

I decided to do some internet searching on my phone. Reports of defections from these places are actually pretty few and far between.

The staff, of course, have families back home, and experts say it could go very hard on them if anyone tried to run away - although one or two restaurant managers have been known to abscond with bags of cash.

On those occasions, restaurants had been shut down entirely.

The working assumption, according to most reports, is that the Pyongyang chain is primarily there to make money, to feed the North Korean leadership's desperate need for foreign currency.

Some speculate that the restaurants are in fact directly under the wing of the secretive Bureau 39, an agency that allegedly launders cash for the government through ventures that include arms sales and methamphetamine production.

But to be fair, there was absolutely no sign of that here. And anyway, given all the staff, pleasant decor and equipment, it occurred to me that this little place was hardly going to provide that much of a boost to the nation's struggling balance sheet.

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