“我觉得你能给孩子们做的事情中,最重要的莫过于做一顿家庭晚餐,”劳丽·大卫(Laurie David)在《家庭晚餐》(The Family Dinner,书中的菜谱是希尔斯廷·乌伦豪尔特[Kirstin Uhrenholdt]写的)一书中这样引用《美食家》(Gourmet)的露丝·雷切尔(Ruth Reichl)的话。这样的炫耀在劳丽·大卫的书中随处可见,结果这本书对家庭烹饪的神化比其中略显平庸的菜谱(简易晚餐菜肉馅煎蛋饼、土耳其肉糕和你最喜欢的烤奶酪)更令人难忘。对孩子来说没什么比家庭晚餐更重要吗?我倒是可能会把“送孩子上学”或“偶尔拥抱他们”排在前面。
Such bunk continues in "The Family Cooks," another production by David and Uhrenholdt, who turns out to be David's private chef. (Aha, the secret to "The Family Cooks" is . . . the family cook.) This time the book has Katie Couric laying down the law: "The single most powerful thing anyone can do to protect their health, to live a healthy life and to have a healthy future is to go into their own kitchen and cook food themselves." As if to blow all these superlatives away, David eventually brings in the master stylist and vegetarian-food thinker Jonathan Safran Foer for the coda to "The Family Dinner." Foer's own "food is everything" aria does not disappoint: "Every meal," he writes, "is a chance to get it right or get it wrong, to approach or withdraw from our ideals. Does anything in our lives matter more than how we set our tables?" I tried hard to connect this question to the Easy Cheesy Dinner Frittata but couldn't. I'm telling you: I'm not cut out for this.
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2020-09-15
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