Wu Genfa, a baozi shopper old enough to be his grandfather, is having none of this fusion approach. “I don’t like foreign breakfast,” he says unapologetically. “We’ve been eating Chinese food for decades and if we suddenly change to foreign food, our stomach can’t get used to it,” he says.

队伍里一位年纪足以当那位年轻人祖父的食客，则完全无法接受中西混搭的吃法。他的名字叫吴根发。“我不喜欢外国的早餐。”他理直气壮地说，“我们已经吃了几十年中国食物，如果突然改吃外国食物，我们的胃习惯不了。”

China’s stubborn adherence to its bun-and-rice-gruel antecedents means that even western fast food restaurants such as KFC have to learn to wrap a steamed bun to survive in the mainland breakfast market. In fact, KFC’s rice porridge with pork and hundred-year-old egg is so popular at breakfast time — paired with a deep fried pastry or “youtiao” for a set meal as low as $1 — that it’s often sold out by the time I get there.

中国对包子、米粥等传统食物的顽固坚守，意味着即使是肯德基(KFC)这类西方快餐店都得学着做包子，才能在中国的早餐市场上生存。事实上，肯德基早餐时间供应的皮蛋瘦肉粥（原文称皮蛋为“百年老蛋”(hundred-year-old egg)——译者注）配油条套餐（该套餐售价8元人民币，约合1美元）极受欢迎，我去的时候经常已经卖光了。

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