“It’s inevitable that the price in Spain is going to rise,” said Roberto Batres, the director of Shanghai de Delaiberia Gold, which exports ham, wine and olive oil to China. “The companies licenced to trade in China don’t have enough jamón de bellota to meet Chinese demand.”

“西班牙火腿价格上涨是不可避免的。”向中国出口火腿、葡萄酒和橄榄油的享肴商贸（上海）有限公司的总监罗伯托•巴特雷斯说，“在中国有经销权的公司没有足够的伊比利亚火腿来满足中国人的需求。”

In an effort to meet demand the Chinese have started importing raw frozen pork from Iberian pigs and curing the meat themselves, although Batres says the product is excessively salty.

为了满足国人吃伊比利亚火腿的需求，中国人开始进口冷冻伊比利亚生猪肉来自己腌制火腿，不过巴特雷斯说，中国人腌制的这种火腿产品特别咸。

The production and consumption of top-quality ham is the subject of the same awe and mystery as the making of fine wine. Cutting de-boned jamón de bellota on a ham-slicing machine is regarded as sacrilege. The leg must be bolted on to a frame called a jamonero and then cut by hand using a long, narrow blade. Most towns in the ham-producing areas of Extremadura, Castilla y León and Andalucía hold solemn ham-slicing competitions, often attended by hundreds of spectators.

顶级火腿的生产和消费就像优质葡萄酒一样让人心生敬畏和神秘感。用片肉机来将去骨的伊比利亚猪腿切成片被认为是亵渎圣物。猪腿必须被固定在一种叫jamonero的架子上，然后师傅用一把又长又窄的刀将其切成片。在出产火腿的埃斯特雷马杜拉、卡斯蒂利亚-莱昂和安达卢西亚区的多数城镇，都会举行隆重的切火腿片比赛，通常都会有数百名围观者。

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