The truth about the US' most iconic food
美食争议:最老牌的美国热狗是哪一家?
If there's any food that represents Americana, it's the humble hot dog. Today, these bunned frankfurters are sold at every baseball game, grilled at nearly every backyard barbecue and available at roadside convenience stores from the Carolinas to California. In fact, this most archetypal of American foods originated as the US started to stitch itself back together in the 1860s following the American Civil War and forge its new identity. But while you can now find these seasoned sausage sandwiches across the American heartland, the hot dog's iconic home is on the boardwalk at New York's Coney Island.
如果有什么食物能够代表美国,那就是平凡价廉的热狗。美国从南到北,从东到西,每一场棒球比赛都能买到这种用面包夹着法兰克福香肠的热狗,几乎每户人家后院的烧烤都会烤热狗肠,路边的便利店也都能买到。事实上,这种最为典型的美国食物起源于19世纪60年代美国内战结束美国人重新团结并形成新的国家认同之时。虽然现在我们可以在美国内陆的各个角落发现这种调味香肠三明治,但热狗具有标志性的老家却在纽约康尼岛(Coney Island)的那条木板步道上。
As the city was sweating its way through a heat wave, I recently descended into the furnace that was the New York City subway and fled Manhattan for the soothing breezes of the Coney Island seashore. The beachside Brooklyn amusement park is a mixture of kitsch and family-friendly fun: its wooden boardwalk and golden sand is crowded with rides, games and food joints that have catered to hardworking New Yorkers for more than a century. On the corner of Surf and Stillwell Avenues, I saw a swell of beachgoers line up under tall, white signs bearing the name 'Nathan's Famous' that proudly advertises: 'This is the original: World famous frankfurters since 1916'.
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