One family I visited used Sichuan peppercorns in most everything they served me. To finish a stir-fry, they sprinkled on a bit of the ground spice just as if it were black or white pepper. The family's version of mapo tofu relied solely on hua jiao for seasoning. For my taste, the result had too much ma and not enough la─an object lesson in the importance of striking the right balance between chilies and peppercorns. One of their kitchen drawers held a jar of ground peppercorns moistened by oil─a brilliant idea, because the oil captured the spice's zing and kept it always at the ready. The family used this paste to season all kinds of salads and sauces.
在那里,我拜访的一户人家招待我的几乎每道菜里都用了花椒。作为一盘炒菜的最后一道工序,他们像用黑胡椒或者白胡椒一样,把花椒粉撒了上去。这户人家做的麻婆豆腐,佐料全是花椒。我品尝后的感觉是,麻味有余、辣味不足,这个反面案例凸显出正确掌握花椒和辣椒搭配比例的重要性。在他们的一个厨房抽屉里,有一罐油浸花椒粉──这真是个好主意,因为油能够吸收花椒的植物精髓,使之随时可被取用。这户人家会把这种油浸花椒粉做出的酱料当成佐料,搭配在各种凉拌菜和酱汁中。
In other encounters, Sichuan peppercorns played a less obvious role. One restaurant served its signature duck with a fragrant chili mixture that contained just a hint of the spice's citrusy brightness and numbing edge. A locally made candy had a suggestion of it too. I was inspired to experiment in countless new ways─all the more so because nowadays, Sichuan peppercorns are readily obtained Stateside, not only in Chinese markets but online, at sources like kalustyans.com. I've even seen them at Whole Foods. Looking back at my years on the wrong side of the law, it seems almost too easy.
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