Fong Inn Too had been one of the last two places in Chinatown where you could buy freshly made tofu right from the factory, made much the same way as it had been for over a thousand years. But as rents have increased and demographics have changed, tofu factories and shops have largely disappeared — either moving to New Jersey and other boroughs, or shuttering altogether. "Many Chinese people have left, and foreigners have moved in," said Yan Zhen Lun, who runs Sun Hing Lung tofu factory on Henry Street. "Chinese people eat our tofu, foreigners eat it less."
华埠可以直接在作坊购买新鲜豆腐的地方仅两家,宏安是其中之一,采用的是一千年来没有多少改变的工艺。但随着租金的上涨和人口结构的变化,豆腐工厂和豆腐店基本上已经消失——要么搬到新泽西和其他地区,要么干脆关门大吉。“很多华人已经离开,外国人搬进来,”显利街新兴隆豆腐店的经营者闫震伦(音)说。“我们的豆腐都是华人吃,外国人吃得不多。”
But amid this seeming decline in a culinary tradition, Mr. Eng saw an opportunity to restore a Chinatown institution while adapting it for a younger generation. The new realization of the shop is operating in one of the family's original manufacturing spaces on Division Street and under the shop's original name, Fong On.
不过,在这种烹饪传统似乎正在衰落的背景下,伍启芳看到了一个机会,既能恢复华埠的传统,又能让它适应年轻一代。新开张的店铺位于地威臣街,曾经是黄家最早的作坊之一,并且恢复了商店最早的名字:宏安(Fong On)。
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