On a recent afternoon at Fong On, a young, tattooed couple were enjoying tofu pudding with taro balls, mung beans and grass jelly. They had heard about the shop on an Instagram account called veganeatsnyc. The account, which has almost 50,000 followers, posted a photo of Fong On with the caption "FRESH TOFU AND SOYMILK? Say no more and take me away @fongon1933!"
不久前的一个下午,一对有文身的年轻情侣在宏安享用豆腐布丁,里面有芋圆、绿豆和仙草冻。他们之前在叫veganeatsnyc的Instagram账号上听说了这家店。这个有近5万名粉丝的账号发了一张宏安的照片,旁边写着“新鲜豆腐和豆浆?别再说了,带我走吧@fongon1933!”
Mr. Eng is marketing to vegans, to hipsters, to foodies, "to anyone who has an open mind to try new things from different cultures." What remains to be seen is if the shop can bring in this younger crowd while still serving its original customers. Mr. Eng knows that this can be hard in a place like Chinatown, where small price changes can hit hard. "I don't want to sticker shock the community on a block of tofu," he said. "But also, we can't sustain — we didn't sustain — at the price we used to sell at." In local markets, a brick of factory-made, vacuum-sealed tofu costs $1 to $1.50. At Mr. Eng's shop, a brick of the fresh stuff goes for $2.
伍启芳招徕的对象有纯素者、嬉普士、美食达人,以及“任何愿以开放心态尝试不同文化新事物的人。”尚有待观察的,是这家店能否在吸引年轻群体的同时,依然服务老客户。伍启芳知道,在华埠这样价格微调会是重大打击的地方,做到这一点可能很难。“我不想因为一块豆腐,给社区带来价格冲击,”他说。“但同时,我们靠着以前的价格也是无法维持的——之前就没能维持。”在当地菜市场,一块工厂制作的真空封装豆腐售价为1美元至1.5美元。在宏安豆腐店,一块新鲜豆腐卖2美元。
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