“北方美食”位于一处路边摊式的狭窄空间,以前属于一家名叫“西安名吃”(Xi’an Famous Foods)的餐馆,如今“西安名吃”已发展成一个兴隆的餐饮连锁公司。西安是河南省西侧的陕西省的省会,那里的几种特色小吃这里也有,比如凉皮,它是一种面筋面条,以芝麻酱和爽口的陈醋调味,两者相得益彰、味道浓郁,并配上粗糙、有弹性的面筋块以及脆脆的豆芽、花生和黄瓜。
Qishan noodles, also from Shaanxi, are chewy bands in a hot-sour broth, topped by a chile-plowed heap of minced pork, carrot, wood-ear mushrooms and day-lily buds, with the faintest leavening from a crush of fresh parsley. “It looks like an exploded dumpling,” one of my companions said, and then we fell silent, chopsticks warring over it. (Note that this dish appears on the paper menu as “noodles with ingredients” and on the photo menu as simply “pork noodles.”)
岐山臊子面也来自陕西,面条筋道,汤是酸辣味的,里面有辣味碎猪肉、胡萝卜、木耳和黄花菜混合物,新鲜的碎欧芹更为之增添风味。“看起来像是饺子爆炸了,”一个同伴说。说完我们都陷入沉默,开始用筷子跟面条大战。提醒一下,这种面在纸质菜单上写的是noodles with ingredients(带配料的面条),在配照片的菜单上只简单地写着pork noodles(猪肉面条)。
The widest noodles of all lurk in a nearly red broth mobbed by hunks of beef, cabbage and whorls of onion, with the added vehemence of doubanjiang, hot fermented bean paste, in the style of Sichuan Province to the southwest.
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2020-09-15
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