最糟糕的是,就像母亲烹饪书所明示的那样,喂养孩子的日常工作不是圣人们的责任。显然也不是爸爸们的责任,那些烹饪书鼓励爸爸们有几样拿手菜或者擅长烧烤,但是没让他们定点做早餐、午餐和晚餐。做饭必然是妈妈们的事。我想从其他妈妈那里也听到对这种后退的愤怒。但是我被非常不友好地打断了:现在其他女人居然喜欢做饭!她们觉得做饭有意义,也很有趣。只有我还想做“天生的解冻者”。上一次和一位女权主义者交谈时,我大胆尝试把食物嗜好症与可恶的厌女症联系在一起,结果她说,“我明白你的意思了,但我喜欢做饭。”
"I like to cook"? What about "I like not working and having no opinions and being everyone's handmaiden"? Hasn't women's false consciousness about their "preferences" always been a part of the sexist equation? Or is theirs the true 2017 consciousness — the liking to cook — and I just would have fared better in the heyday of Salisbury steak? (Dr. J. H. Salisbury, wouldn't you know: Civil War-era food faddist and earliest known carb-hater.) Among my newly foodie friends, I couldn't get a witness to my bewilderment. At the same time no MakerBot is going to roll in and cook for my family. I'm going to have to find an apron and make real food happen daily for my children, lest they be poisoned by phthalates, dextrose and heavy metals while I'm pretending to be Jessica Lange.
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2020-09-15
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