The classic masculine button-down has this season been given a feminine twist. Spring/summer catwalks introduced shirting with new architectural proportions: strict peplums or sculptural, cut-out details tied up with ribbons. “Mensy” shirts were chopped into a severe crop and decorated with asymmetrical ruffles.
这个春夏时装季,经典款领扣式男衬衣被设计师赋予了女性风情。各个春夏季时装秀场推出了呈现全新比例结构关系的衬衣:腰部饰裙以及系着丝带的雕花图案比比皆是。男款衬衣被翻改成用非对称皱褶装点的女性风格装束。
What was once just a building block of a woman’s wardrobe has been remade as the focal point. “The great thing about shirting is that it goes with jeans, and jeans are probably the most modern, functional garment that ever existed,” says designer Jonathan Anderson whose six-piece JW Anderson x Net-a-Porter capsule launched last month.
昔日女性装束的寻常角色如今摇身一变,成为时尚界众目睽睽的焦点。“衬衣的妙用就是它能随意搭配各种牛仔装,而牛仔装或许是时装界有史以来最时髦、功能最为多样的装束。”设计师乔纳森•安德森(Jonathan Anderson)这样说道。不久前,他与Net-a-Porter合作推出了JW Anderson六件单品“混搭装”(capsule)。
The collection elevates shirting to new levels: pieces include an off-the-shoulder, loose top with a sweetheart neckline and superfine spaghetti straps, and a one-shouldered pinstripe bustier with a sculpted peplum. For the designer, taking a timeless piece as a basis for a directional collection makes the pieces easily wearable. “I wanted to propose items customers would be able to combine with their actual wardrobe,” says Anderson.
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