Often the answer will be “poor Bangladeshis”. But similar working conditions prevail across the globe, and the big brands seem blithely unconcerned. The international Behind the Barcode report, published last year by the charity Baptist World Aid Australia, found that 86 percent of brands surveyed made no attempt to ensure a living wage across their supply chains, and half didn’t even know the locations of the factories in which their garments are made. And while H&M and Inditex (Zara) have taken action to pay wages above the legal minimum at the final stage of production, in the “cut-make-trim” factories, this does not extend to the textile workers, who spin or embroider the fabric, or to the cotton farmers at the very beginning of the supply chain.
大多的答案都是“可怜的孟加拉国”。但是全球各地都有着类似糟糕的工作环境,但是大品牌貌似对此毫不关心。去年澳大利亚世界援助浸信会慈善机构出版了“条形码背后”国际性调查报告,报告发现86%参与调查的品牌没有打算确保整个供应链的最低生活工资,一半的品牌甚至不知道制作服装的工厂在哪里。虽然H&M和Zara已经开始采取行动,在生产的最后阶段支付高于法定最低标准的工资,在裁缝制衣工厂里,这些福利不涉及到纺织或刺绣工人,也不包括在供应链最前端的种植棉花的农民。
The latter certainly deserve better treatment. In the past 15 years, there have been 250,000 cotton-farmer suicides in India (equivalent to one every 30 minutes) because they simply can’t make ends meet. But, says Somers: “Tragedies are preventable. All we need is to make every stakeholder in the fashion supply chain responsible and accountable for their action and impacts. We have incredible power as consumers, if we choose how to use it.”
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