娇兰(Guerlain)在1965年的“喜悦之歌”(Chant d'Aromes)香水广告告诉我们,一瓶伟大的香水应做到以下两点:必须能表达女人想表达的自己,同时必须能从某种意义上被男人理解。在宽肩盛行的80年代,Giorgio和迪奥(Christian Dior)的“毒药”(Poison)等香水用浓郁的香氛大声地表达,而就在那之前几年,1978年的Nuance广告则告诉女人,香水不应该太强烈或者太夸张。该广告建议称:“如果你想要吸引别人的注意力,低语倾诉就好。”
Perfumes still 'say' things, of course, but in a post-signature scent era, when women (and men) are offered upwards of 1,000 new fragrances a year to choose from, most people express different things with their perfumes, depending on their moods, the event they're going to, what they're wearing, or whatever they happen to grab on their dressers. Are these eternal, 'essential' truths about their wearers? Not so much, since perfume can be applied and taken off as easily as a Roberto Cavalli leopard print maxi-dress or an L.L. Bean down vest-jacket.
当然,如今香水依然能“表达”很多东西,但是在后标志性香味时代,当女人(以及男人)每年有多至1,000种新香水可供选择时,多数人会根据心情、要参加的活动、穿戴或者在梳妆台上随手抓来的香水表达不同的信息。这些信息能反映出香水使用者永恒的、最本质的自我吗?不见得,因为香水可以和罗伯特・卡沃利(Roberto Cavalli)的豹纹长裙或是L.L. Bean的羽绒背心一样穿脱自如。
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