“我喜欢做饭”?你怎么不说“我喜欢不工作,没有思想,当所有人的女仆”?女人对自己“偏好”的虚假意识不一直是性别歧视者理念的一部分吗?还是说喜欢做饭是她们在2017年的真实感受,而我更适合生活在索尔斯伯利牛肉饼盛行的时代(你不知道J·H·索尔斯伯利博士[Dr. J. H. Salisbury]吗?他是内战时期的食疗信徒,是已知的最早憎恨碳水化合物的人)?在我新结识的美食家朋友中,没一个人理解我的困惑。与此同时,也没有3D打印机来为我的家人做饭。我必须去找个围裙,每天给孩子们烹制真正的食物,以免在我把自己假想成杰西卡·兰格时,孩子们被邻苯二甲酸盐、葡萄糖和重金属毒害。
Thus we get the mother cookbooks, stuffed like Cornish hens with their whimsical anecdotes and their photos of stylish children helping to cook like cheerfully indentured galley slaves. These books do much more than prep you to opine grandly on nutritional fallacies. They bark out actual marching orders for making meals. The lively food seminar, which only demanded that I read and talk, is over; the dread hard labor of cooking has begun. Not only are these women (or their trusty co-authors) ace home cooks, they have also figured out dinner once and for all and are extraordinarily self-assured about their axioms. They heard the clarion call of real food a decade ago and resolved (for Empire?) to work tirelessly over hot stoves to save our sons and daughters from the packaged and the processed and the highly destructive myth of low-fat.
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2020-09-15
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