But very soon all that began to change. The train loos stopped stinking. Prefabricated stainless steel commodes showed up on all newer rolling stock, complete with staff to sluice them down at regular intervals. The only odour on Chinese trains these days is freshly brewed coffee from the dining car.
但这一切很快就发生了改变。火车上的厕所不再臭气熏天,所有比较新的列车上都装了带盥洗台的预制不锈钢马桶,列车员会定期冲刷。如今在中国的火车上,唯一的气味就是餐车飘来的现煮咖啡味。
Closer to home, there was “Pipi Road”, the nickname we gave to the lane just next to our house, where dozens of Shanghai taxi drivers would every day choose to relieve themselves, after dining at one of the neighbourhood dumpling emporia. The stench nearly put me off moving there in the first place. In winter the wet patches froze and in summer they steamed.
我家附近有条“尿尿路”,这是我们给紧挨着我家的那条小巷起的绰号。每天都有几十个上海出租车司机在附近饺子馆用过餐后,到这条小巷里解手。臭气让我一开始差点不想搬到那儿。冬天尿液在地上冻成一块一块,夏天空气里散发着尿骚味。
And then one morning, a spanking new government porta-potty turned up on Pipi Road. It was staffed from 5am to 10pm every day by a government sanitation worker charged with keeping it smelling like a Swiss meadow. Who said you need democracy to have responsive government? I can’t think of anything more responsive than putting a public convenience where it’s needed. Pipi Road has had to be rechristened.
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