火腿告急！西班牙火腿成中国餐桌新宠_时事

火腿告急！西班牙火腿成中国餐桌新宠

The Chinese, pork lovers par excellence, have now been seduced by jamón ibérico. The problem is that the best ham takes years to produce and, as demand outstrips supply, it is pushing up the price by as much as 10%. A 7.5kg leg sells at between €150 and €600.

超爱吃猪肉的中国人如今被伊比利亚火腿给俘获了。问题在于，最好的火腿需要数年的生产时间，因为供不应求的原因，价格已经上涨了10%。现在一条7.5公斤的火腿售价在150欧元到600欧元之间（合人民币1180元到4721元之间）。

Spanish ham comes in many forms, but to be defined as jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn-fed Iberian ham), which is what the Chinese want, it must first come from Iberian blackfoot pigs, or from 50% crossbreeds. These pigs must then spend several months of the year roaming the dehesa, a pasture planted with oaks, feeding on grass and acorns. During the last few months before being slaughtered they must live exclusively on this diet.

西班牙火腿有多个品种，但要成为中国富人爱吃的“喂食橡子的伊比利亚火腿”，首先肉源要采用伊比利亚黑脚猪，或者有50%伊比利亚黑脚猪血统。这些猪需在种植了橡树的牧场放牧数个月，吃青草和橡树果实。在被宰杀前的最后几个月，它们只能吃这两种食物。

顶级的伊比利亚猪在山地放牧期间每天奔跑14千米并拥有着2公顷自由放牧面积。这样广泛的运动一方面造就猪皮紧实的外观以及细长的脚踝（脚踝越修长则种族越纯正）。另一方面，100%伊比利亚猪的徒步走动使脂肪渗透肌肉，产生了红白相间且不滑腻的肌内脂肪，脂肪质地一触即可知。橡实喂养也使肉里除了火腿的鲜香，还有更为复杂耐嚼的气息。

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