让大型食品企业更换部分氢化油,成本可能非常高昂(FDA自己估计,成本高达60亿美元),主要原因在于模仿部分氢化油的表现十分困难。可那是这些企业的问题。谁都无法估计这些油脂为企业制造了多少利润,又对公众造成了多少损害。FDA的分析还估计,未来20年里由于反式脂肪消耗量的下降,医疗及其他成本能够节约1400亿美元。
The so-called alternatives already exist: you make croissants with butter and you use half-and-half, not “creamer, in your coffee; anything else is a waste of calories anyway. Chronic diseasesaside, it’s impossible to estimate how much good eating we’ve missed because misinformedpeople told us that Crisco is better than lard, margarine is better than butter, partiallyhydrogenated soybean oil is better than olive oil. (Yes, of course you can fry in olive oil.) I’vemade my best pie crusts with a mixture of butter and lard (some people insist all butter issuperior), yet for 30 or 40 years I’ve had to listen to people tell me about the benefits ofCrisco.
所谓的替代品已经存在了:做牛角包是用黄油,在咖啡里倒半脂奶油而不是“伴侣,毕竟其他任何物质都只是浪费卡路里而已。一些判断有误的人告诉我们,Crisco起酥油比猪油好,人造黄油比黄油好,部分氢化的大豆油比橄榄油好(没错,当然可以用橄榄油煎炸食物)。除了慢性病的问题,我们也很难估计因为这些东西,我们错过了多少品尝美食的机会。我把黄油和猪油混在一起,做出了最棒的派皮(一些人坚持说,全用黄油才最好),然而过去三四十年里,我一直都要听别人对我夸耀Crisco的好处。
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