5. Rituals | 9 a.m.
5. 仪式 | 上午9点
Zagreb is a town of traditions. Every day at noon, the Lotrscak Tower cannon is fired, sendingshock waves across town. And each Saturday, Purgers (as people from Zagreb call themselves)don their best threads and head to cafes in the main square, Jelacic, to see and be seen. Youwon’t want to miss this tradition: Each morning at 7, farmers and produce vendors set up inthe town’s open-air market, Dolac, on a bustling quad between Upper and Lower Towns.Surrounded by souvenir kiosks and quick-bite joints, a sea of red umbrellas shelters cheeses,meats, fish, nuts, oils and vegetables spill over tables in the place locals call “the belly ofZagreb. Have your breakfast here on the fly. Spread local butter atop warm bread and chase itwith fresh figs (total cost, about 30 kunas).
萨格勒布是一座传统之城。每天中午,洛斯卡克塔(Lotrscak Tower)的礼炮都会鸣响,整个城市为之颤动。每个星期六,萨格勒布的居民们(他们自称“Purgers)都会穿上最好的衣服到捷拉斯加(Jelacic)主广场去,观看他人,也被他人所观看。还有一个传统仪式你肯定不愿错过:每天早上七点,农民和小摊贩们会到城市的露天广场朵拉茨(Dolac)摆摊,它就位于上城和下城一处闹哄哄的场院里。四周是一片红雨伞的海洋,遮盖着纪念品售货亭和快餐小吃摊。奶酪、肉食、鱼类、坚果、食油和蔬菜摆满了桌子,所以本地人把这里叫做“萨格勒布的肚子。百忙中来这里享受一顿早餐吧。在热乎乎的面包上涂满本地产的黄油,再搭配新鲜的无花果(合计30库纳)。
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