Wanfu Qiao sat outside the city wall's north gate, along a route traversed by laborers luggingrapeseed oil (a type of vegetable oil still used in Sichuan) to market. Ms. Dunlop speculates thatone day the porters gave Chen Mapo some oil and requested that she make them somethingwith bean curd. Heeding the Sichuanese penchant for ma-la (numbing and spicy flavors), sheadded plenty of dried chilies and huajiao (Sichuan pepper) to her bean curd dish and served it ina pool of chili-hued oil.
万福桥位于成都北门外,正好是运送菜籽油(一种菜油,四川仍在使用)的脚夫们途经之路。扶霞推断,某天脚夫给了陈麻婆一些油,让她做些豆腐吃。 想到四川人喜欢麻辣口味,她就在豆腐里加了很多干辣椒和花椒,并配以红油。
The owners of Chen Mapo Dofu, a chain of restaurants in contemporary Chengdu, maintainthat their shops are directly descended from the late 19th-century original. It's a claim that'simpossible to verify, though Ms. Dunlop thinks it may have merit because when the ChineseCommunists nationalized privately owned restaurants in the 1950s, they usually left thebusinesses' family names intact.
现今的成都连锁餐馆“陈麻婆豆腐的老板坚持说,他们的餐馆是直接从19世纪的陈氏老店继承下来的。这种说法无法考证,但是扶霞认为也有一定道理,原因是中国共产党在五十年代对私有餐馆国有化的时候,通常都会保留餐馆的家族名字不变。
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