Overseas Chinese restaurant versions of mapo dofu rarely pack the ma-la punch of the realthing, probably because most restaurant owners hail from chili-phobic southern China, but alsobecause the processing that huajiao must undergo for export robs it of fragrance and flavor.
海外中餐馆里的麻婆豆腐很少有成都当地原汁原味的麻辣口味,或许是因为大多数餐馆老板都来自于少食辣椒的中国南部,但是也可能是因为出口所用的花椒必须经过一定处理,因而令花椒失去了原有的香味和风味。
THE SETTING
做法
Mapo dofu is a lunch or dinner food to be enjoyed -- depending on the occasion and thecompany -- with a simple stir-fried green vegetable or an array of cold starters, other maindishes and soup. In Chengdu, you're rarely more than a city block from a passable version,whether it's served in an establishment dripping with gold leaf and crystal chandeliers or arustic open-air eatery run by a lone cook working a single wok.
麻婆豆腐可以在午餐或是晚餐时候享用,根据场合和食客的不同,可配以一道清炒时蔬,或是几个冷盘,其它一些主菜,还有汤。在成都,街头巷尾随处都能吃到还过得去的麻婆豆腐,无论是金碧辉煌的大饭店,还是一人主厨的简陋的大排档。
The dish is also a comfort food well-suited to preparation at home. According to Chinese-American Zuo Ziying, who was born in Chengdu and who conducts tours in southwest China forLotus Culinary Travel, jiachang or home-style versions of mapo dofu are usually less oily andmore simple than those cooked in restaurant kitchens. When Ms. Zuo prepares the dish athome, 'I make it with just tofu cubes and some chili oil, and not so much beanpaste.' And sheoften substitutes chopped scallion greens for suanmiao (the local leek).
【人间美味!四川成都的麻婆豆腐!】相关文章:
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