大多数人仍认为任何皮肤问题─不论是暗沉肌肤、痤疮或老年斑──都能通过多用点儿力搓洗来解决。费城(Philadelphia) 索赛蒂希尔皮肤病医院(Society Hill Dermatology)医疗总监、强生公司(Johnson & Johnson)发言人、露得清(Neutrogena)及可伶可俐(Clean & Clear)护肤系列制造商苏珊?泰勒(Susan Taylor)说:“他们认为‘我唯一需要做的就是更彻底、更用力地清洁它。’那是每个人的答案。”
Most cleansing products have a surfactant, a chemical or natural compound that helps break through the surface tension of the skin. The cleanser absorbs dirt and oil and removes them during rinsing, according to Menas Kizoulis, scientific engagement leader on Johnson & Johnson Consumer Cos.' R&D team.
强生公司消费部研发组科研参与负责人米那斯?伊佐利斯(Menas Kizoulis)说,大多数清洁产品都含有一种表面活性剂,它是一种有助于打破皮肤表面张力的化学或天然合成物。清洁用品会在漂洗过程中吸收并消除污垢和油脂。
While removing dirt and oil, the surfactant interacts with the stratum corneum, the skin's outermost layer and protective barrier -- and that is where problems begin. The surfactant can remove the good oils skin produces, resulting in overdrying, Mr. Kizoulis says. And it also can remain in the stratum corneum, exacerbating irritation.
在祛除污垢与油脂时,表面活性剂会与角质层发生反应。角质层是皮肤的最外层,也是它的防护屏障──而这正是问题的根源。伊佐利斯称,表面活性剂会祛除皮肤产生的有益油脂,导致皮肤过干。而且它还会遗留在角质层中,加剧对肤质的刺激。
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