同时,中国内地人还有地球上最多变的口味。美国人可能想吃妈妈以前在他们放学后给他们配着牛奶吃的饼干;而中国人每天都想吃点新鲜的。在推出绿茶、紫薯等非传统口味的新品方面,本土企业往往比跨国企业更灵敏。
And cookie companies are facing competition from an even more unlikely source: homebakers. When I moved here, ovens were rare in normal homes: I figured that was why minedidn’t work too well. But now many a Chinese bride insists on having one. Sales of thecountertop ovens preferred on the mainland have more than quadrupled since I started wieldinga flour sifter on Chinese shores, and a 318-piece everything-you-could-ever-need baking setcan be had on Alibaba’s Taobao for only 137 devalued renminbi.
而且,饼干公司还遇到了一个看起来更不可能的竞争对手:家庭烘焙机器。当我刚搬到这里时,烤箱在一般家庭很少见:我觉得这就是为什么我那台烤箱不太好用的原因。但现在,很多中国新娘都坚持配一台烤箱。自我开始在中国海滨摇晃面粉筛以来,在中国内地很有人气的台面烤箱的销量已经增长三倍多,现在,全套318件的烘焙工具套装在阿里巴巴(Alibaba)旗下的淘宝(Taobao)上只要(已经贬值的)137元人民币就可以买到。
For, given that the vast majority of Chinese under 30 have never known an hour of hunger intheir lives, let alone survived on roots and shoots, just filling the tummy is no longer the point.They cook for fun — and for health reasons, says Qian Zhaoli, a 27-year-old marketing managerin Shanghai. She’s started baking her own rusks because her first child is teething. “I wantedher to have the healthiest ones, without any additives, she says, adding that shop-boughtrusks have such a long shelf life, and “who knows how many artificial colours andpreservatives they contain? Plus, western-style baking is far easier than cooking any ofChina’s complicated cuisines, she says, noting that in Shanghai most cooking is done by men.
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