过去,人们认为外国美食比本土小吃更健康,因为它们是从别处进口而来的,那些地方并没有这种风气——用受到污染的原料毒害居民。2008年搬到这里的时候,我花了一段时间才适应那种认为麦当劳(McDonald’s)是一种健康饮食选择的观念,纯粹是因为麦当劳不那么可能有毒。在这里,当有内地人告诉你什么东西是“健康的,他们的意思通常是指这种东西不会立即致命。
But in the past few years, China has begun to discover that heavy metals are not the onlythings to avoid in snack foods. There is that small matter of fat and sugar, too. Last week,Chinese media carried stories saying that Mondelez, the maker of Oreo, was shutting downsome Shanghai production because people were going right off biscuits. The US companywaffled a bit about “optimising our supply chain and shifting production elsewhere, but thecompany had made clear in the past that Oreo was in trouble in China. Figures fromEuromonitor show that, since the sound and light of its centenary celebration, the biscuit haslost one-third of its market share in China, from nearly 9 per cent of the market in 2012 to 6per cent now.
但过去几年,中国人开始发现,重金属并不是唯一需要在零食里避免的东西。还有一些小问题:糖和脂肪。最近中国媒体报道,因为人们正在丧失对饼干的兴趣,奥利奥的制造商亿滋(Mondelez)关了上海一些生产线。这家美国公司扯了一通诸如“优化我们的供应链和转移到别处生产的言论,但这家公司过去就曾明确表示,奥利奥在中国遇到了困难。欧睿(Euromonitor)的数据表明,在庆祝100周年的声光魅影以后,奥利奥饼干的中国市场份额缩小了三分之一,从2012年的近9%下降至现在的6%。
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