"Between the moment they invest in them and the moment they will get their return will be five to seven years," says Ketty Maisonrouge, a luxury branding consultant. "If you look at most brands, what's successful today, they all try to understand what it is to make sure you don't grow too fast."
If Coach is to recover, Wall Street is going to need to let it ease off the gas pedal, make like Burberry, and realize that a sterling brand and massive sales are a contradiction in terms.
蔻驰(Coach)是世界著名奢侈品品牌,主营男女精品配饰,尤以手袋闻名,但今年业绩欠佳。7月,因销量惨淡,蔻驰高层发生了变动,再加上本周二,蔻驰公布了令人失望的收益报告,双重打击之下,蔻驰股票大跌,跌幅创历史新高。然而,在富有的精英阶层似乎完全从经济危机中恢复过来,并带动整个奢侈品消费市场走向繁荣之时,蔻驰糟糕的销售业绩实在令人觉得费解。那么,蔻驰究竟出了什么问题?
攻势猛烈的新兴品牌自然是挑战之一,如凯特·思蓓(Kate Spade)和迈克·科尔斯(Michael Kors),这些品牌更得年轻消费者青睐。他们认为蔻驰是富有阿姨辈的专属,打个比方说,新兴品牌就像是纽约年轻时尚的教会区(Mission District),而蔻驰则像是第五大道(5th Avenue),更为奢侈古板。
但更大的问题可能来自于产品初期的过速发展。投资者急于追求利润的增长,蔻驰因此不得不在过去的几年间不断扩大生产规模并增开几十家工厂直销店,这样做的确使其利润有了飞跃,但这时蔻驰已不再是原来的蔻驰。
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