撒马尔罕地毯作坊(Hujom街12号,www.silkcarpet.net)每年大约手工织造300张地毯,其中40%左右为私人定制。它们之中既有古老的波斯风格,也有寄托了地毯委托人感情的手绘图案。一位日本客户打算织出全世界最精美的地毯之一,于是他委托该厂织造一张90厘米长、55厘米宽的地毯,花费达85,000美元,将需要七年时间才能完工。这张地毯非常之精细,织工每天只能织一个小时以免毁掉视力。
Over glasses of tarhun─a tarragon-based drink─Mr. Badghisi tells me that the factory was started in 1992 by his father as a way of reviving the dying art of carpet making in the country.
巴德吉斯一边喝着塔尔红(tarhun,一种用龙嵩酿制的酒),一边告诉我他父亲在1992年开设了这家作坊,以这种方法来振兴该国地毯制造业这种濒临灭绝的工艺。
'Handmade things are like paintings, a piece of culture, art and history,' he says. 'We wanted to continue the tradition, as in the Soviet time they forgot how to make carpets. It is music for the eyes.'
他说:“手工制品就像绘画,是一件蕴含文化、艺术与历史的东西。我们想延续这种传统,因为在苏联时期他们忘记了如何织造地毯。它就像献给眼睛的音乐。
From the workshop, it is a short drive to Registan Square─one of the great sites of Samarkand─yet it is deserted on a Friday lunchtime in summer, such is its relative position off the global tourist trail. The scale is awe-inspiring and the blue of the Sher-Dor Madrasah is still resplendent after nearly 400 years. Here, in the shops nestled inside the base of the domes, it is tempting to buy a Holbein-blue, double-sided silk rug─a snip at $400. Yet, as with many shops in Uzbekistan, you can only pay with cash.
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2020-09-15
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