虽然纽约的发布会大多缺乏前不久在巴黎举办的一些时装秀的强烈戏剧感,但这里也展现出一些令人印象深刻的表演技巧,比如汤姆·布朗为展示一组灰色长款西服而布置的无限反射的玻璃箱。“大家总是说伦敦很前卫,巴黎很有创意,纽约只是商业化,马登说,“但是如果你看过汤姆·布朗或达基·布朗(Duckie Brown)的时装秀,你就不会那样说了。
With its distorted volumes, acid palette and unexpected elegance, the Duckie Brown showwas by consensus a highlight of the week. Yet it was far from the only evidence thatcreative spirits both rigorous (Garciavelez) and rumbustious (Boyswear) stand ready to takerightful places alongside industry heavyweights. Just the chance to be seen in proximity toRalph Lauren or Michael Kors had benefits for independent designers like Jackson McKeehan ofBoyswear or Carlos Garciavelez Alfaro of Garciavelez.
晃动的裤腿、耀眼的色彩和意想不到的优雅——达基·布朗的时装秀被公认为本届纽约男装周最精彩的部分。不过,它绝不是严肃的(例如Garciavelez)和喧闹的(例如Boyswear)创意精神能与业内重量级人物平起平坐的唯一证据。对Boyswear的杰克逊·麦基恩(Jackson McKeehan)或Garciavelez的卡洛斯·加西亚维雷·阿尔法罗(Carlos Garciavelez Alfaro)等独立设计师们来说,有机会在拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren)或迈克·高仕附近亮相让他们受益颇深。
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