伦敦塞尔福里奇(Selfridges)百货店个人购物咨询员乔·奥特维(Joe Ottaway)故作痛苦状。“我不是太喜欢运动鞋,他说。他承认周末穿啥鞋是件棘手事。“关键是要穿适合自己年龄段的鞋。看来,本人不是第一回没跟上男士主流时尚了。“男士穿着考究入时的年代已经卷土重来。这意味着超出一定年龄,就不能再穿运动鞋了,那么定在什么年龄呢?“25岁为界,奥特维说。这让人都不寒而栗:我的儿子都已超过穿运动鞋的年龄了。
Ottaway, who supervises the store’s personal shopping service for men, is in a position to help. I’m here on the opening day of Selfridges’ new men’s shoe department: more than 15,000 sq ft featuring 250 brands and 72,000 pairs of shoes. We are in search of the perfect weekend shoe: something “sharp, smart, practical, hard-wearing, a soft brogue, a casual boot. Rather than a Nike Air Max.
奥特维是塞尔福里奇个人购物咨询部负责人,他可以给我“施以援手。塞尔福里奇新款男鞋部第一天开张时,本人亲临现场:15000多平方英尺的营业面积、250种品牌以及72000双鞋。我在物色最适合周末穿的鞋——时髦、漂亮、实用又耐穿,软皮布洛克鞋或是休闲皮靴都行,而不能是耐克Air Max气垫鞋。
There is the sublime and the ridiculous in the lavishly scaled hall – but I am not sure which is which. It is an undeniably impressive, airy space, which sets me thinking: could men’s shoes become the new women’s shoes? Is there a male equivalent of the fetishistic high heel, the all-purpose ballet pump, the giveaway blood-red sole? I am sceptical. For the record, I have never, ever engaged in a shoe conversation with a male friend. But times change, and to be well-heeled these days requires one to be well-heeled. For the hell of it, Ottaway shows me a £8,195 pair of crocodile-skin loafers from Tom Ford. I flee, heading for an extravagant collection of trainers. “Off limits! he says. Now here is the problem, I protest. The concept of the perfect weekend shoe depends on what constitutes the perfect weekend. Mine may include a football match, a church service, shopping for art in Hoxton, taking long walks in the Cotswolds.
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2020-09-15
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